How to Eat Hákarl Without Embarrassing Yourself

The reason hákarl exists is straightforward and slightly grim. Greenland shark flesh is loaded with urea and trimethylamine oxide — compounds that let the animal survive in deep cold water and that make it poisonous to eat fresh. Iceland had a shark and no way to eat it. So it worked out how.

What actually happens to it

The shark is cut and cured — traditionally pressed in gravel and sand so the fluids drain out, for several weeks — and then hung in an open drying shed for months. The wind does the rest. What comes out is pale, cubed, and smells overwhelmingly of ammonia.

The smell is the part nobody warns you about properly. It arrives before the taste and it does not fade. Open the tub outside, or open it in a room you are prepared to lose for an hour.

What it tastes like

Less dramatic than it smells. The texture is soft and slightly springy, closer to firm cheese than to fish. The flavour is ammoniac, salty, faintly sweet at the back. Two pieces in, most people find the shock has gone and are left with something more like an intense aged cheese.

The videos of tourists gagging are real, but they are mostly reacting to the smell and to being filmed.

How to eat it properly

Small cubes. A cocktail stick. Room temperature, not cold from the fridge — cold flattens it and traps the ammonia.

The traditional chaser is brennivín, the caraway-flavoured schnapps that Icelanders nicknamed Black Death. You take the shark first and the shot second, not the other way round. Skipping the chaser is allowed. Making a face is allowed. Spitting it out is where the embarrassment starts.

Serve it with rúgbrauð and butter if you want to soften the whole experience, which is also how it is often served at Þorrablót, the midwinter feast where most Icelanders actually encounter it.

How much to buy

A small tub. We mean this seriously.

Hákarl does not get eaten steadily over a month. It gets opened at a party, passed around, and then it sits in a fridge radiating ammonia while everyone pretends it isn't there. Buy the smallest size we sell — 100g, get through it in one evening, and buy again if you turn out to be one of the people who likes it.

Some do. Not many, but some.

Who actually eats it

Fewer Icelanders than the internet suggests. It's seasonal — Þorrablót in January and February — and plenty of people under forty will tell you they haven't had it in years. It is not a daily food and nobody claims it is.

But it isn't a tourist invention either. It's a preservation method that predates refrigeration on an island with no timber for smoking and limited salt. It survives because it's part of a specific January table, alongside svið, hrútspungar, and the rest of the food that a small country ate in order to get to spring.

That's a more interesting reason to try it than a dare. Though a dare works too.


Buy hákarl — Djúpalón, 100g–500g, from $44.99. Pair with: harðfiskur, rúgbrauð, salted butter.

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